KOTZEBUE — It’s raining again, the wind rising and waves sloshing over the grass. I’m yanking at corkline, struggling to stack my salmon...

This summer I journeyed south, to McNeil River, farther than I’ve ever traveled to see any animal, let alone bears. For most of my life...

Kobuk River—It’s been a rainy fall. Again today the clouds are low, mist fills the air and raindrops pelt the windows. Water drips off...